sleeve - 25.5
shoulder - 19
length - 32.5
chest - 23
Trs - 36 3 x 33 2
Trouser sizing key - waist spare at waist x length spare at hem
Suit For sale here is a stunning and very rare four button 1960's black mohair suit with red satin lining, ticket pocket, large flaps, mother of pearl buttons and a flat fronted trouser with hidden front pocket. The style could be described as 'Teddy boy' with the four button front and flat fronted trousers but in reality the definitions of the various Edwardian and mod influenced styles are all blurred and this is perhaps better seen as a very stylish suit of the period, by a particularly stylish tailor .
The suit was made by Lord and Stewart, a tailor we have not owned an example of before but after a decent amount of googling have formed a theory .....
We believe that the Stewart may well be Henry Stewart, or possibly a brother. Henry Stewart is known as the premier American tailor of the post war period and sadly passed away in 1993, he spent his boyhood in his fathers tailoring establishment on Savile Row before moving to the U.S in the 30's as a young man. He is known for tailoring for the rich and famous, as was Cyril Castle, and may well have heard of Cyril Castle through mutual clients. There has been a Stewart tailoring family in Edinburgh and later Savile row since at least the early Victorian period. We have had items from both ' Stewart' and 'Christie (&) Stewart' from Savile Row dating from the 20's and 30's, this may well be the same family and even father of Henry Stewart. In buying the Cyril Castle suits recently we also have in the store , we discovered that the two tailoring establishments shared very similar labels, clients, used the same cloths ( see other suits), and most importantly were literally on the same premises, 41 and 42 Conduit street. It is our hypothesis that Henry, or possibly a brother formed the association with Castle as they shared similar clients and could pool resources. Was 'Lord' a reference to 'Lord of the manor' Cyril ? A silent partner ? 42 was certainly the more impressive of the two shops, at least to look at, and he was there first. This is all conjecture of course and if anyone has more information we would love to know.
Cyril Castle was best known for being Roger Moore's tailor through the 1960's and into his first three Bond films but he was also tailor to the rich and famous of the period including Frank Sinatra, Terry Thomas, Terence Stamp and this Gentleman. He started tailoring at this level roughly in 1950 although there is very little online about him or his work considering his fame. This is not surprising perhaps as his work was limited to people who's clothing doesn't often come up for sale and also the relatively few suits he made in the <25> year span of his tailoring.
The website 'The suits of James Bond' has several articles on Castle and his suits including www.bondsuits.com/anthony-sinclair-cyril-castle-man-about-town-1950s/ and is worth investigating further.
At VV we don't normally go into detail and create a song and dance about the suits we sell, preferring to let the suits do the talking but in this instance we have made the exception because this, and the other sister suits by Lord and Stewart, really are something very special.
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